Once we reached the Thai/Malay 'boarder' city of Hat Yai we waited 2 hours and switched minibuses for the ride into Malaysia. Our new bus was not nearly as nice but it was less crowded, even after we zipped around town picking passengers up. It is an 1 hour drive from Hat Yai to the boarder crossing and I decided to enjoy the lush green countryside to the music of Phish (10/31/90).
At the boarder crossing I befriended one of our fellow passengers on the minibus. Julien is a Frenchman from Brittany traveling on his own in SEAsia for 5 months and putting off the inevitable--a J-O-B back home.* Anyway, after the boarder we hopped back on the bus for the ride into Malaysia to Pulau Penang (Pulau means island in Bhasa Malay) and I slipped into the second set of 10/31/90. As the kilometers went by I felt like I was no longer in SEAsia, the infrastructure was superb and it seemed so modern and efficient. The green fields and forrests, the rubber and palm plantations whisked by and then there was a magnificent sunset. Once it got dark there was a T-storm that made the air fresh, clean and taste sticky sweet. The minibus chugged on and eventually we were crossing the bridge to Penang (SEAsia's longest suspension bridge).
Our destination on Penang was the main city of the island, Georgetown. We made it to the city and the driver of the minibus made so many turns that my head was spinning as I looked out the window at the city before me. I was completely disoriented when the bus came to a stop in the middle of Chinatown--I didn't realize it at the time--in front of a money exchanger, with the worst exchange rates, naturally. Julien and I studied our map of Georgetown and determined our position. It was a short walk to the White House the guesthouse I wanted to check out first. After some preliminaries, Mo negotiated a favorable exchange rate and traded some of our Thai Bhat for Malay Ringit. Finally we made our way to the White House. The rooms were large and in charge, clean and had attached shower--the toilet was down the hall but was also exceptionally clean. For 26 ringit/night (~$7) we took it. Julien also took a room and we decided to meet up for a beer once we had settled in a bit.
We decided to take our beers at a local bar called Tai Wuh (Ty-luh?). The bar turned out to have great atmosphere with many local Malays there to enjoy the cold beer and jamming guitars. Apparently every night at Tai Wuh's is a night of guitar jamming where the ring leader convinces people in the bar to come up and play with him. It was like kareoke but with instruments a sort of half-assed open-microphone night. After a few beers Julien got up and played a 'dirty' drinking song (all in French so don't ask me. Je ne parle pas Francais). At this point we were having a great time getting to know our new friend. Amy and I would take the piss out of Julien for being French--you know the whole smelly, dirty Frenchman stereotype--and Julien bagged on us for being American--uncultured, unworldly, blah, blah, blah. We were having a good time.
The next day Amy and I decided to explore our new environs, after a dim-sum breakfast with Julien. We wondered over to the KOMTAR building, the tallest building on the island and also a huge shopping mall--of course. From there we wondered through the old Chinatown to the Khoo Kongsi clan hall. Georgetown is an impressive and diverse city where Malaysian, Chinese, and Indian people live in relative harmony. There are many temples, monastaries, and churches. The city also has a rich and interesting history as one might imagine. The food options are excellent, as you would expect, and really inexpensive. Our second full day in Georgetown Mo and I visited the Cheong Fat Tze mansion which has been tastefully restored. We met up with Julien for lunch and then headed out of the city to the Kek Lok Si temple where a giant statue of Buddha looks down on the city. It was hot and after visiting the temple we found the local sports complex for a swim. That evening Julien and Tyler found ourselves in familiar surroundings back at the Tai Wuh. The next day we decided to explore the North coast of Penang world renowned for it's beaches. What a disappointment! The beaches were dirty and over-developed. We didn't even bother getting in the water. Discouraged we returned to Georgetown to get a good day and night of rest in preparation for the next day, Thaipusam, a Hindu festival in honour of the diety Lord Subramaniam.
Thaipusam was originally a Tamil festival (from Tamil Nadu in Southern India) but it is now almost exclusively celebrated in Malaysia and Thailand. Thaipusam is supposed to be a day of penance for past sins and celebration for answered prayers. As part of their penance devotees--in a trance like state--carry kavadi (Tamil for "burdens") most commonly in the form of milk jugs carried on the head and connected to the penitents' flesh with hooks. Others wear huge wooden frames or religious alters and pierce their flesh with skewers through their tongues and/or cheeks (see photo gallery). The devotees form a procession dancing through town until they reach a sacred waterfall (or the Batu caves in KL). All along the procession there are booths set up with music and refreshments (FREE!) and it is one big penance celebration! I had seen pictures but to be there for the whole thing was truely amazing. We watched them perform the ceremonial piercings and then we walked a couple kilometers with one devotee and his supporters (friends and family). We got a free meal--and ate it with our hands not with a utensil. What an experience.
The next day we decided to explore the island to the South with a trip to the Snake Temple. The snake temple is a rather modest Buddhist temple where poisoness pit vipers hang out in the gardens and shrubs and in the temple itself. For 15 ringit you can have your picture taken with the vibrantly green snakes hanging all over you (poison removed). The whole thing was interesting but after the Thaipusam celebration it was a bit disappointing. How does anything really compare with Thaipusam? Our last full day in Penang we rented motorscooters and explored the more remote West and South coasts of the island. For a tropical paradise Penang was really a big disappointment, again all the beaches we found were helplessly dirty and swimming in the polluted waters was not alluring--despite the 90 F heat. Riding the scooters was fun, except in Georgetown--a city that is very confusing with weird one way streets and mad traffic. That night we topped off our G-town experience with a trip to Pesiaran Gurney street where food hawkers line up for half a mile selling cheap eats. All in all it was a good day and a good visit to Penang.
After nearly a week it was time to move on and we decided to head South to the island of Pulau Pangkor. We jumped the ferry from Georgetown to the mainland city of Butterworth (FREE!). From Butterworth we took a bus to Lumut (3 hours, 10.60 RM) where we hopped another ferry to Pangkor (40 min, 5 RM). We arrived at Pangkor town to find the pepto-taxi-fleet waiting to whisk us away to the West coast of the island (3 RM/person). I call it the pepto-taxi-fleet because all taxis on Pangkor are painted pepto pink! We found the accommodation to be slightly more expensive but settled in a nice ac room away from the beach at Teluk Nipah (40 RM/night). That evening we enjoyed a swim on the beach before taking an excellent meal at TJ's, everyone in Teluk Nipah knows TJs. The next day Mo and I rented a motorscooter for half a day to explore the island. The interior of Pangkor is rugged and overgrown rain forrest with no access roads. So we made a loop around the island stopping off in local villages to check them out, have a meal, shop, and talk with locals. That afternoon we went to the beach at Coral Bay and enjoyed the sun and water. Amy and Julien swam to a near by--3/4 mile, one way--island while I watched our posessions. It was a good day. Our last full day on the island Julien and I went for an early morning trek through the rain forrest. It was quite pleasant. We were on the trail before daylight so we got to hear the sounds of the rain forrest at night. There is nothing like it in the world and I will not even bother trying to describe it. The mosquitos didn't bite me and I only got one leech...I've said it before and I will say it again, leeches suck, LITERALLY! Another afternoon on the beach and we were ready to split from the fierce heat of coastal Malaysia. Onwards and upwards to the Cameron Highlands.
All the while we have been teaching Julien English--picking up where we left off in Thailand--with Julien teaching us French. Of course most conversations had to be in English because Julien's English is much better than MoWenck's French. Julien is a funny guy and he really likes the sea. Back home he spends his weekends spear fishing in the Atlantic. He claims 30 meters as his deepest free dive! We had some great conversations about politics, religion, racism, prostitution, traveling, etc. You know you are talking to a friend when the topic of conversation deteriorates to poddy talk and no one gets offended. We both found it funny that after France snubbed G-W on the "premptive" war in Iraq that Americans started calling french fries "freedom fries" as a sort of "to-hell-with-you France. Remember, if it wasn't for America you all would be speaking German right now!" Ha! Ha! Ha!** Julien confirmed what I had assumed at the time, that this new nomeclature for french fries rather pleased the French more than hurt them. It was like 2 for 1 day or something. The French got to tell G-W's administration to shove it, that they were wrong (and it has played out that way) and the offensive term for fries, or chips in the rest of the world, was no longer in use. It really was all very silly.
Of course, I don't understand why Americans insist on calling them french fries in the first place? The rest of the English speaking world calls them chips. Chips! Chips! Damn it! Fish and FLIPPING Chips! What's wrong with the Queen's English? Oh I know what you are thinking, if we (Americans) call french fries "chips" what will we call potato chips? CRISPS damn it! Like the rest of the world. A rubber can be an eraser and a condom a condom (not that the current administration will acknowledge condoms or any form of contraceptive other than abstinance--we all know how effective that is in preventing sexually transmitted disease and unwanted pregnancy). When you 'take the piss out of something or someone', it would be funny. Anyway, I've got an idea, Americans will learn to speak UK English (the slang is so much cooler) and the UK and all her current and former colonies will learn to drive on the RIGHT side of the road. These are real international issues that need to be resolved and should be right up Tony and George's ally. It could be a beautiful thing. No one has to die to accomplish the policy.
Sorry about the tangent.
Let's see, where was I? That's right the Cameron Highlands. The Cameron Highlands are located in the interior of peninsular Malaysia. As the name suggests, they are an area of highlands--a couple thousand feet above sea level. Automatically this makes the Cameron Highlands a fantastic destination in Malaysia for no other reason than to escape the heat of the lowlands. From Pangkor it took us about 6 hours to reach the Cameron Highlands with a 2-hour stop over in the unspectacular city of Ipoh. The Cameron Highlands are composed of several villages that have developed into a resort/tourist destination of their own. We ended up in the city of Tanah Ratah where we found an excellent guesthouse called Father's. The rooms were nothing special but the atmosphere was great and the gardens a pleasant base to explore the Cameron Highlands.
There is not a whole lot to do in the Cameron Highlands but hike the jungle trails and visit tea plantations and strawberry/vegetable farms. So for the next three days that is what we did. Our first full day we hiked to the Boh Tea Plantation and factory via the jungle. We got off the trail (#9 instead of continuing on 9A) a bit early and thus had to hike on the road for a few extra kilometers but it was still a good hike. The factory tour was a bit disappointing but what else would you expect, it wasn't a brewry after all. The next day we made our way up the valley to the butterfly farm and strawberry huts. The butterfly farm was interesting enough, especially the creepy crawlies. It is amazing how nature has adapted to the jungle. The butterfly farm had displays with walking sticks, walking leaves, and frogs that looked like dead leaves from above (see picture gallery). Brilliant, absolutely brilliant! Nature never ceases to amaze. We hopped a bus back to Tanah Rata and enjoyed billiards and chess for the evening. Our last full day was spent hiking to the top of the highest peak in the highlands. The trail went through the moss forrest and was really interesting. Walking in rain forrest is like walking on air. Your feet are rarely in contact with solid ground but rather always on a springy mixture of decaying leaves and branches. It is really good for your feet and back and reduces muscle aches. It is like walking on a giant compost heap except the smell is different, pleasant. It smells like the renewal of life rather than decay thereof and it is intoxicating. It was all quite pleasant and we really enjoyed our time in the Cameron Highlands. It was time to get going and so we reluctantly bid the cool mountain air farewell and made for the capital city, Kuala Lumpur.
I like to say Kuala Lumpur. It just sounds cool. Of course most travelers and residents of the city refer to it as KL. KL is a lot easier to say but just doesn't have quite the same appeal. Anyway, we arrived in the city after a 4 hour bus ride from Tanah Rata. The bus dropped us off in the steaming hot city near Chinatown where we intended to stay for the next few days. After the cool, fresh, clean air of the Cameron Highlands the steamy, hot, polluted air of KL is enough to knock you off your feet. As we walked through the madness--there was traffic (gone haywire, it seemed to me) and pedestrians everywhere--in search of accommodation I was wondering what the hell I had got myself into. I would soon find out. We made our way around the area checking out guesthouses until we settled on a clean, small, spartan room at Wheeler's (26 Ringit/night). We settled in a bit and had a shower before wondering out into the thick air of Chinatown in search of a bite to eat and a much deserved beer.
As it turns out, Wheeler's is pretty centrally located and we had no problems finding good cheap street hawker stalls. I had seafood dumpling soup with noodles (5 RM) and it was delicious. After we ate and drank we decided to explore Chinatown to see what was up. Like every Chinatown I've ever been to--like China itself--KL's Chinatown is cramped, loud, and has distinctly Chinatown scents waffting about. A certain combination of ginseng, dried fish, wet noodles, car exhaust, herbs and spices, and blood, sweat, and tears. I can never quite put my finger on the scent 'cause it is always changing. Anyway, we wondered the streets finding Jalan Petaling to be a street shoppers wet dream. As we would come to learn over the next few days, all of KL is a shoppers wet dream. It seems that the shopping mall, with its air conditioning and retail madness has replaced the cool, clean air of the hill stations of the past like the Cameron Highlands. The people of the city flock there, if not to shop at least to escape the cities killer heat.
The next day Amy and I decided we would visit the KL Sentral train station information counter to get the low down on the city. You know, what to see and do, how to get around, upcoming events, all the typical useful information to explore a new city. KL is a fantastically modern city with an intricate public transportation system that involves: commuter trains, a light rail system, a monorail system, a huge bus system, and taxis. You can go anywhere in the city by public transpo, no problem...you just have to figure it out! Unfortunately, as we would find out at the tourist information counter, there is no good information about any of the public transpo services. Like every tourist information booth we have visited in Malaysia, there wasn't much useful info about anything in KL just lost of brochures (adverts). We picked up a confusing map and some info on other parts of Malaysia and split. We decided to go back to Chinatown and so we returned to the LRT (light rail) for the journey back, just one stop.
The LRT was crowded and as we got on the train, everyone crowded together, pushing to get in before the doors closed--I found out later that the doors will close on you, so often you do need to push your way onto the train. I knew something was wrong, I felt it in the pit of my stomache. I checked my pockets before the train even started to move--I had been relieved of the possession of my wallet. I announced it to the train full of people. Mo and I looked around at the crowded car for suspicious or guilty looking people. I couldn't remember who was standing around me on the platform other than Mo. Then there was that final frenzied push where I am certain the pickpocket liberated my wallet. There was a suspicious looking devil but we had no proof and of course he would deny everything.
Some might argue I could have grabbed him anyway and shaken him down for my wallet. It would have done no good, pickpockets usually work in pairs, one lifts the wallet and hands it to his partner who promptly disappears. My wallet was gone along with ~30 RM, my ATM card, and some other miscellaneous items: the Vietnamese driver's license I got while drinking with some locals in Hue; the 25 Kyat note (no longer legal tendor in Myanmar) I got from Par Par Lay; Par Par Lay's business card; email adresses, etc. That is what hurts, these miscellany items were priceless to me but worthless to the thief. The items were probably tossed in a rubbish bin, the bastard! I felt like such an idiot. I was ashamed of allowing myself to be victimized. This was just the beggining of the negative energy generated by the actions of this pickpocket.# Mo and I turned around and returned to KL Sentral police station to file a report and set in motion the process of justice.
Of course there was little the police could do other than fill out a report. The officers were very kind--even though my shame had given way to anger and I was in less than an agreeable mood--they even tried to help me call my bank to cancel the ATM card. Of course, that required an international call and we couldn't make one from the police phone. The officer who took the report needed me to go to the police station proper and meet with a detective to complete the report process. It would take about an hour. I refused to go until I was able to cancel my ATM card and Mo and I started our search for a functioning international phone. We promised the officer we would return. I realized I would probably need to provide information to cancel the card, information I had back at our guesthouse. So, we returned to Chinatown, minus my wallet, in search of a phone. I was able to call and cancel the card and arrange to have a new card sent 'overnight' to the KL branch of Citibank. Swell. It was not all that bad. So I lost my wallet, some small change, and a few knick-knacks, everything was going to be all right.
And eventually it was.
Julien came along with us back to KL Sentral where the police officer was surprised, I think, to see us come back to complete the report. The officer even called for a police escort to the station house. Julien, Mo and I all piled into a police jeep with sirens and all for the ride to the station. Once there it took us another half hour to determine which detective would 'investigate' the crime and thus complete the report. After about an hour everything was settled and we headed back to Chinatown. Julien went his own way to explore the city while I went back to my room a bit exhausted. There would be time to explore the city, my bankcard was not due to arrive until 08Feb05, the day before Lunar (Chinese & Vietnamese) New Year. Originally we had planned to go to Malakka for the New Year but plans had changed. I was born in Lodi but I found myself stuck in Kuala Lumpur.
The next day we eventually decided to walk over to KL's green belt--the Lake Gardens--where there is a beautiful park with an orchid farm, a bird park, a butterfly park, lakes, planetarium, national monument, parliment, etc. So we set off through Merdeka Square just North and West of Chinatown. The square is famous for the Sultan Abdul Samad Building on its Eastern boarder, the Royal Selangor Club on the West and a giant flag pole. As we approached the square it was apparent something was going down, something big. There were grandstands, stages, music, and corporate stalls. We didn't know it at the time but it was all there for the conclusion of the Langkawi Tour, Malaysias (really SEAsias) biggest bicycle tour. We kept on keeping on for the park. The entrance to the park from the North has a splendid little sculpture garden with works from artists from all over SEAsia. We checked out the art and enjoyed a cool refreshing beverage before climbing up to the National Monument which is typical: you know a depiction of some soldiers fighting and raising the Malaysian flag. All done in grand fashion with fountains and plaques, etc. We then wondered into the park proper and after Mo convinced us to play on the teeter-totter we walked around the lake. It was all quite pleasant except for the unbearable heat. We finally made our way to the planetarium on the South side of the park and for 1 RM went into the cool air conditioned complex. It was informative enough--a little out dated--and most of all comfortable. We spent an hour and a half learning at the interactive displays and made our way to the 4-storey observation tower for an excellent view of the Lake Gardens and surrounding city. From the planetarium we made our way back to Merdeka square where we got to watch the cyclist whizzing around the city. It was a good day.
The next day we continued to explore the city with a visit to the local YMCA to find out about swimming pools and basketball. We had the spare time but the Y didn't offer much that interested us ('cept for the Angolan martial art Capoeira). Anyway from there we tried to find a bookshop to exchange some titles but the bookstore we were looking for had moved. Crap! On to Jalan Bukit Bintang (more shopping complexes). By this point we were savy veterans of KL public transportation (no one could steal my wallet 'cause I didn't have one!). We used the monorail to get to BB Plaza (Oh man were the Simpson's in my head on that ride). I was disappointed to discover that the monorail is not one continuous loop through the city, it has terminal stations! Therefore it is far from a true monorail system as there are two rails, one for vehicles to go in each direction. Oh sure, the vehicles ride on a single rail but the structure has two rails. When it comes to monorail, I guess I am a purist. LOL! After casing the BB Plaza and discovering a bowling ally we jumped a bus back to Chinatown (0.70 RM).
The next day my bankcard was due to arrive and since the local Citibank is near the Petronas Towers we decided to check them out on the way. The towers are open to the public for free every day except Monday. The catch is, you don't get to go to the top. You can only go up to the 41st floor where the sky bridge is that connect the two towers. Fair enough for a free ride. The other catch is they only allow 1200 visitors per day and you need to get tickets. Well, Mo and I got there bright and early and we got tickets for the 1045 ride up. While we waited we checked out the mini-museum about the construction of the towers and the gift shop. Finally we got to go up and it was quite cool. The Petronas Towers are the world's tallest towers.*# The skybridge connecting the towers is tallest of its kind, 170 M above street level. I must admit that the Petronas Towers are quite beautiful. The architect included classic geometric shapes incorporating Islamic interpretations of the geometry. The buildings are finished with shiny stainless steel. It is all very tasteful and eye pleasing. The vies from the sky bridge are nice enough and the whole development is a modern marvel. The Towers are also part of the Kuala Lumpur City Center (KLCC) development with parks, playgrounds, office buildings and hotels. Of course there is also a 6 storey shopping mall (Suria). If they still haven't figured out what to do with ground zero (or settled the lawsuits or whatever) peeps in charge--whoever that maybe--should come to KLCC.
After visiting the towers and the mall--of course--we made our way to the Citibank. I found my way to the help counter and they did everything they could to help me but my situation, apparently, was helpless. My bankcard had not arrived. We called the Citibank helpline and determined the card would not be delivered until 08Feb05 in America. Of course that means it would be 09Feb05 in Malaysia or Lunar New Year. The Citibank would be closed for the rest of the week! I would not be able to get my card until Monday. Oh hell! To compound issues I was unable to get emergency cash (I still don't understand why) and would have to continue to depend on Amy for cashish. Further, I needed to call back at 0700 NYC time to have the card re-routed to me at my Guesthouse (originally they refused to send it to me at my Guesthouse. It is against the rules). Great. Fantastic. Swell. Stuck in Kuala Lumpur. We went back to our Guesthouse and at 0700 NYC team I called the bank. They would have to cancel the card they sent to KL Citibank and issue a new card this time to be sent to me at my guesthouse, 'overnight'. I would have to be there to sign for it and could expect it to arrive in 2-3 business days. Great. Stuck in Kuala Lumpur...in my guesthouse.
The next day was Lunar New Year and Julien, Mo and I all went to the Malaysian Chinese Association (MCA) celebration where we were treated to free food, all you can eat! This is the second time since I have been in Malaysia that I have received all I can eat meals for free. I like Malay Holidays! After we stuffed ourselves we made our way over to KLCC Suria Plaza for the impressive Lion Dance. We wondered around the city checking out festivities. It was weird because many shops and businesses were closed and restoraunts jack up their prices 10%. There were thousands of people just sitting around not knowing what to do with their free time. It was all a good time. We also discovered that most of the places we had been visiting in KL are within walking distance. We didn't even need the public transportation, although there is something to be said for the air conditioning available on public transpo. On Thursday we kicked around town but it was like a Ghost city for the New Year. On Friday we managed to go bowling with Julien and two other travelers Sam from UK and Goxel from Turkey. I managed to bowl 139 in one game, we won't talk about the other.
On Saturday I woke up early to say farewell to Julien, he was heading off to Borneo. After Julien split I hopped in the shower. Before I had finished Goxel came and informed me that the UPS man was at the front desk with my card. I didn't believe him at first but Mo confirmed his storey. Dripping wet I signed for my precious bankcard. Before long I had even drawn cash and repaid Mo. My only problem now was re-establishing my on-line banking account. In order to do this I needed to know my account number to link it. Of course, I didn't have that information written down anywhere. I called the bank and after much huffing and puffing was told for my own protection they would not, under any circumstances, give me my account number over the phone. Crap! I needed to pay an overdue bill and I could only do it online. After sending my mother, who was camping at the time and I knew it, a rather distressed email I discovered the account number tucked away in a secret place. So secret, I forgot about it. Finally, I was able to reestablish my on-line banking, pay bills and get on with life.
The rest of the day we spent trying to see a movie (Constantine, but it was sold out) with Goxel and Sam. In the end we decided not to leave KL until Monday, after we purchase our flights to Australia so in the mean time I typed up this blog from hell and uploaded photos. I hope you all enjoy it very much. Tomorrow we are headed to the jungle for a week before we go down to Borneo for more jungle fun so I might not blog on for a while. WOOHOO! Ciao!
NOTES:
* All the Lodgers out there must have just groaned in agony--Not another French Julien? Can it be possible?--well, don't fret boys this Julien is actually cool. LOL! Just kidding Jules, everbody knows your parties rock.
** En Francais children. Huh! Huh! Huh! Random Simpson's reference for Martin's sake.
# I have had lots of time to think and review my thoughts about my experience and theft in general. I am not a criminalogist, this is not a blog on criminalogy so I will try not to bore you (it is probably a bit late for that) with all of my thoughts on the subject matter. I will just say that so much negative karma was generated by this act of theft. There was my initial feelings of hurt pride and shame that eventually merged into pure anger. All negative energy. Every time I dealt with the repricussions of the theft a little of this anger came through. I would become impatient and curt with the people trying to help me: the police, bank representatives, and even Amy. Negative. Negative. Negative. I honestly believe all that negative energy--karma--will find its way back to the perpetrator of the crime. The only positive that has come from this is my recognition of my behavior and thoughts following the incident. I think I know where the shame and anger came from and I can work mentally to avoid it in the future. I have learned about my attachment to material things and a little more about impermenance. All positive. Maybe that is why this had to happen. Of course, it may just be my own negative karma coming back to me from some gruesome childhood behavior...you know like burning ants with a magnifying glass or pouring salt on a slug...who knows?
*# The Petronas Towers are 452 M tall. The recently opened Taipei 101 is currently the world's tallest building coming in at 509 M! However in a bid not to be outdone the Chinese are currently erecting what will be the world's tallest building. What is that all about? The Chinese have built the world's largest wall, biggest damn, and are working on the tallest building. Must be trying to make up for some other shortcummings, eh? I'm only mostly kidding.